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{{project
{{AttentionBox
| title=Dangerous machine ahead
| msg= Use only at your own risk. Taking a laser introduction course is mandatory to use this machine.
}}
 
{{ThingInfoBox
|name        = LaserCutter
|name        = LaserCutter
|status      = experimental
|status      = working
|image      =  
|image      = Lasercutter01.jpg
|description = A Laser to cut stuff
|description = A Laser to cut stuff
|author      =  
|owner      = MuMaLab
|username    =
|version    =
|update      =
|platform    =
|license    =
|download    = [https://cloud.munichmakerlab.de/owncloud/public.php?service=files&t=bf26c735cd6cce536a7a2ca13ff20fd9 OwnCloud Share]
}}
}}


We bought a laser! This page should be used for documenting stuff.  
Laser cutters are an excellent tool for cutting and engraving wood and acrylic glass. To get started, you will need a vector file (bought online or created by yourself in Inkscape/illustrator) and laser-safe material. This page will give you an overview of the laser cutter, safety information, and instruction on how to use it. Before using it, you must complete a machine introduction course.
 
 
'''Before starting, please read the [http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/safety.htm#safgui Safety Guidelines]'''


Here is THE Manual for using the Laser Cutter:  
== Current Status ==
[[Using the Laser Cutter]]
* Undergoing major maintenance and upgrades
* Lens: 50mm


== Features ==
== Features ==
* Big build area (Table Size: 1240 x 1000 mm / max Cutting Size: 1140 x 800 mm)
* Big build area (Table Size: 1240 x 1000 mm / max Cutting Size: 1140 x 800 mm)
* Red light mode for dry run (could need a second laser source ) - In Progress
* Pilot laser for dry run and positioning
* 80W CO2 (see [1]), wavelength ≈ 10 microns
* 90W CO2, wavelength ≈ 10 microns
* AWC608 Controller (see [3])


== Components / Parts ==
== Components / Parts ==
* Anywells AWC608  Laser Engraving Cutting Controller
* Trocen AWC7824 Controller Laser Engraving Cutting Controller
* Reci 80W CO2 Laser Tube
* Reci 90W CO2 Laser Tube
* HY-T80 Laser PSU (http://www.jnhyec.com/en/productxx.asp?signid=90&proid=124}
* DY13 100W Laser PSU
* Step Up Converter LM2596S (maximum input voltage 35V)
* OpenLaserSafety v1.0
* Exhaust System including filters
* Air pump (for Nozzle)


== Handover ==  
== Safety ==
Videos:  
[[File:Lasercutter-safety-switches.jpg|right|400px]]
https://www.flickr.com/gp/peterfroehlich/37Y0h0
Laser cutters are dangerous in various aspects. There is an invisible laser beam that can permanently damage your eye. The fumes that escape while laser-cutting or engraving materials are at least unhealthy, in some cases toxic and worst case can cause severe health issues when inhaled. There is also a chance of starting a fire if operated incorrectly.


Documentation:
* Undergoing a training course is mandatory before you start using the laser.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/enh2fepkbfpnuyg/AAB81zYn4_yINY1aRJK2Tknsa?dl=0
* Do not tamper or work around any safety measures, including the machine activation and laser safety circuit.
* Always (with no exception) supervise the machine or have someone supervise it for you. Do not leave the laser cutter unattended while a job is running.
* Immediately e-stop the machine in case of a fire and after that start extinguishing it.
* Stop the laser job and investigate if you smell or hear anything weird.
* Make sure nobody stays in the pit (performing work, or sleeping there - just fetching a box is fine) and hang the white/red chain before starting the laser.
* Never attempt to laser-cut unknown or dangerous materials. If in doubt, do not laser-cut.
* Do not stick your hands or other parts of your body in the machine while (you or someone else is) operating the controller.
* Remove any additional workpieces from the laser bed; they pose a fire hazard.


Pictures:
== Safety precautions ==
https://plus.google.com/photos/102115038260468952916/albums/6138055661157233265?authkey=CMCZhOKk-_q35QE
* Check the laser cutter for recognizable defects/damages/irregularities before using it.
* Always leave the "Laser"-Switch in the off-position when the laser is not needed.
* Make yourself aware of where the fire extinguishers are located.
* Know where the E-Stop and Power-Off switches are located at.


Wiring diagram:
==== Important switches explained ====
http://www.lightobject.info/download/DSP/LaserMachineWiringDiagram2.jpg
* '''Laser-Switch:''' Controls the "enable" pin on the laser power supply. While off, the laser power supply will not turn on.
* '''E-Stop''': Shuts off the power supply for stepper motors and the laser power supply (moving parts + laser beam)
* '''Main power switch''': Used to turn the machine on/off, disables power to the entire machine (moving parts + laser beam + control/safety circuits)
* '''Air Vent''': Press to start air exhaust/ventilation. Will keep on for 10 seconds or as long as the laser is running. Watch for status light to confirm air flow is nominal. Started separately from the main laser supply as it's loud and annoying.


LaserCAD:
== Laser-cutable materials ==
http://www.lightobject.info/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=2484
We recommend that new users cut/engrave poplar (wood) or MDF. A good list of [https://dallasmakerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials dangerous and safe materials can be found here].
If you are unsure what material it is or if you can not find information if it is safe to laser, always default to 'unsafe' and do not laser-cut.


== Knowledge ==  
== Preparing your files ==
# Connect your computer to the "munichmakerlab" wifi. The password is written on the postbox mounted on the workshop door.
# Using the (windows pre-installed) "remote desktop" or (mac, additional software) "[https://apps.apple.com/us/app/microsoft-remote-desktop/id1295203466?mt=12 Microsoft Remote Desktop]", connect to "laserpc" (or IP 10.10.20.81). The username and password are 'makerman'.
# Once connected, navigate to the Z:\laser\ folder and create a folder with your (lab-unique) name or nickname
# Now you can copy and paste vector files (.ai, .dxf, .svg) from your local computer into the folder on the computer
# Open LightBurn on the laserpc (icon on the desktop) and import (ctrl + i) your file


Laser saur manual (our cutter is NOT a laser saur, but there are some similarities:
== Technical Details, Manuals & Files ==
http://www.lasersaur.com/manual/
These resources are '''not''' needed by users.
* [[LaserCutter/Technical Details]]
* [[LaserCutter/Calibration]]
* [https://wiki.munichmakerlab.de/wiki/File:Laser%20Cutter%20Door%20Bracket-STL%20and%20Fusion360%20file.zip 3D model of Laser Cutter door bracket (STL and Fusion360 file)]


Awesome source of knowledge about diy laser cutters:
== Tips and Tricks ==
http://www.buildlog.net/
This [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1Ra56usqYbG-8oADPOyG4eDwnKWwOrgkof9u4UqbFWIk/edit?usp=sharing PowerPoint] is '''not''' needed by users but is useful, for beginners and first time users, please refer to this [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1mnYwoEByULWz7uwHjkz9AstAIT-9Vb-CBWk5OmvVvgw/edit?usp=drivesdk PowerPoint], the wiki and the diagram posted by the laser cutter if in doubt of the workflow when operating the cutter.


Open Protect and water flow pins on controller / laser psu:
Refer to the workflow below for how to physically interact with the laser cutter, then look at the [https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1Ra56usqYbG-8oADPOyG4eDwnKWwOrgkof9u4UqbFWIk/edit?usp=sharing PowerPoint]when you reach the step '''Remote desktop into the laser cutter PC'''
http://www.lightobject.info/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2015


Lasersaur Mailing list:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lasersaur


Introduction to CO2 lasers (read the safety part!)
[[File:DIAGRAM LASER CUTTER.png|400px]]
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/laserco2.htm


Controller pins:
=== Speed and power suggestions ===
* OUT1: Output "Low" when XY start to move. OK to use this output to control air-pump On or Off as "Air-pump" take time to pump air out and slow
* OUT2: Output "Low" when laser is firing:
** Note that there is no output when XY is moving. It is ideal to use it to control an air-valve when use "Air compressor" as air-assist. Faster action
** Use the same output to trigger a timer/counter for counting laser usage.
* IN1: Door open protect (pulled to GND is closed)
* Other I/O are "NA" and reserved for future expansion
* Warning: TTL is 24V! Still, OUT1/2 are not powerful enough to drive a classical relais.


== Calibration ==
The following tables have a couple of suggestions for speed and power values to use for common materials. Please feel free to extend them if you find new values that work well for your material.
Safety warning: For calibration it is necessary to deactivate the sensors of the hatch. Therefore, wearing safety glasses is absolutely mandatory.  Do not calibrate the laser with persons without safety glasses in the space.


Calibration works well using sticky notes attached to the mirror mounts. Laser output is to be set to 20%. The laser is then fired manually (1-3 seconds) until a burn pattern becomes visible on the sticky note. There were always two burn marks when we were calibrating (Why?). The first calibration was done starting with the mirror next to the laser tube, then working the way toward the cutting area.
==== Cut ====


* The laser spot is not circular: Most probable cause is the mirror directly above the lens.
To cut, you generally want higher power and lower speeds. If you're cutting acrylic, make sure to leave the protective film on for cutting. This protects your material from marks left by the fumes occurring during the cutting process.


== ToDo ==
{| class="wikitable sortable"
* <strike>wire up electronics and HAL sensor</strike> <done>
! Material !! Thickness (mm) !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power (%)
* <strike>Review power circuitry</strike> <done>
|-
* <strike>Install FlowSensor in Chiller</strike> (was already installed)
| Acrylic || 6 || 8 || 70
* <strike>Learn serial protocol of Chiller</strike> (Adrian) There is no serial :/
|-
* <strike>Complete outer case (to avoid escaping beam)</strike>
| Acrylic || 3 || 20 || 60
* <strike>Complete inner case  (to avoid escaping exhaust gases)</strike> (Ricardo)
|-
* <strike>Build exhaust venting system </strike>
| Plywood || 3 || 30 || 50
* <strike>Install gas cylinders to prop up hood (see [4] for choosing correct cylinders)</strike> (Eymen) <done>
|-
* <strike>insert optical components </strike>
| Plywood || 5 || 17 || 75
* <strike>calibrate optical components [6]</strike>
|}
* <strike>connecting laser tube</strike>
* <strike>inside illumination (white leds)</strike>
* <strike>write manual and documentation</strike> (Eymen)
* <strike>Control and safety panel</strike>
* RFID-Access-System ([[User:Jorgen|Jorgen]]) <in progress>


== Safety System panel ==  
==== Engrave ====


Code on [https://github.com/munichmakerlab/LaserSafety github]
Since you generally want to be relatively shallow when engraving, you're looking for high speed and low power.


The Safety System runs on an Arduino, checks for
{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Material !! Brightness of engraving !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power (%)
|-
| Acrylic || || 200 || 10
|-
| Plywood || lighter || 300 || 11
|}


* Water flow (Right before the laser tube, arduino counting pulses)
== Troubleshooting ==
* Chiller temp (measured before and after laser tube)
* Exhaust system (differetial pressure; digital)
* water leak under the chiller and in connection pipe on both sides (digital) (--> Heiko)


* lid closed (reed contacts, directly connected to the controller --> Peter)
* If all lights are green and the cutter head isn't moving (the display will most likely show "System resetting"), check the emergency stop is not pressed in.


--> Adrian, Heiko (Code review by Peter?)
* If you are having trouble Remote Desktop connecting to the Laser PC, make sure you are connected to the MuMaLab WIFI.


Maybe later:
* If you are connected to the laser cutter via remote desktop and cannot send a file, save your Lightburn file and close light burn, open Lightburn again and try to re send the file
* Compressor running
* power consumption (???)
* ...
 
== Sensors ==
=== Waterleak ===
[[File:Wassersensor.png]]
 
[https://wiki.munichmakerlab.de/w/images/c/c2/Waterleak_Sensor_Schematic.pdf Schematic]
 
== Consumables ==
 
Our laser tube:
* Reci W3 80W Long life CO2
 
Mirrors:
* use copper-backed or molybdenum-backed mirrors. Do not use silicone backed mirrors.


== Finance ==  
== Finance ==  
When we have this thing running, we maybe need to think how we can get the costs back in. A 100W laser tube costs around 1200€ and has a lifetime of 6000-10000h.  
A 100W laser tube costs around 1200€ and has a lifetime of 6000-10000h. On the [[20150315 Plenum]]/[[20161009 Plenum#Commercial_use_of_the_laser_cutter|20161009 Plenum]]), it was decided that the following usage fee will be charged:
 
* 2€ per 10min for members
As discussed on the [[20150315_Plenum]], we will start with the following structure:  
* 4€ per 10min for non-members
* 2€ per 10min for members, 3€ for HuS, 4€ for non-members
* 5€ per 10min for "commercial" use
 
== Logging ==
We installed a data logger to keep track of the usage hours. The logger tracks the time the air assist is on, which is just about the runtime the laser controller displays for a job. We want to use this to track the working hours of the laser tube, but if you want to check how long your laser cutting jobs took, feel free to checkt that here as well:


* [http://10.10.20.64/cgi-bin/get_laser.pl All jobs] (new ones at the top)
* [http://10.10.20.64/laser/ Daily reports]


== Inspiration ==
Some connectors:
- https://www.flickr.com/photos/satiredun/15868308421/sizes/o/
'PCB' out of steel:
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtZQoIheYcc


== Additional Parts ==
* Gas spring, Price 24€, Manufacturer Shockex, Part number 1181202100, Amazon [5], Force: 320 N, Outer diameter 1: 18 mm, outer diameter 2: 8 mm, Stroke length: 187 mm, Lenght: 468 mm


== Sources ==
* [1]: http://support.epiloglaser.com/article/8205/42827/
* [2]: http://www.lasersaur.com/
* [3]: http://www.lightobject.com/AWC608-Commercial-DSP-CO2-Laser-Engraving-Cutter-Controller-P321.aspx
* [4]: http://www.gasfedershop.de/gasfeder_berechnung/
* [5]: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B008MPR8W8
* [6]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wpsi3tKJGMo
[[Category:Project]] [[Category:Inventory]]
[[Category:Project]] [[Category:Inventory]]

Latest revision as of 11:39, 11 November 2024

Attention Attention: Dangerous machine ahead Attention
Use only at your own risk. Taking a laser introduction course is mandatory to use this machine.
   
LaserCutter

Status: working [box doku]

Lasercutter01.jpg
Description A Laser to cut stuff
Owner  MuMaLab

Laser cutters are an excellent tool for cutting and engraving wood and acrylic glass. To get started, you will need a vector file (bought online or created by yourself in Inkscape/illustrator) and laser-safe material. This page will give you an overview of the laser cutter, safety information, and instruction on how to use it. Before using it, you must complete a machine introduction course.

Current Status

  • Undergoing major maintenance and upgrades
  • Lens: 50mm

Features

  • Big build area (Table Size: 1240 x 1000 mm / max Cutting Size: 1140 x 800 mm)
  • Pilot laser for dry run and positioning
  • 90W CO2, wavelength ≈ 10 microns

Components / Parts

  • Trocen AWC7824 Controller Laser Engraving Cutting Controller
  • Reci 90W CO2 Laser Tube
  • DY13 100W Laser PSU
  • OpenLaserSafety v1.0
  • Exhaust System including filters
  • Air pump (for Nozzle)

Safety

Lasercutter-safety-switches.jpg

Laser cutters are dangerous in various aspects. There is an invisible laser beam that can permanently damage your eye. The fumes that escape while laser-cutting or engraving materials are at least unhealthy, in some cases toxic and worst case can cause severe health issues when inhaled. There is also a chance of starting a fire if operated incorrectly.

  • Undergoing a training course is mandatory before you start using the laser.
  • Do not tamper or work around any safety measures, including the machine activation and laser safety circuit.
  • Always (with no exception) supervise the machine or have someone supervise it for you. Do not leave the laser cutter unattended while a job is running.
  • Immediately e-stop the machine in case of a fire and after that start extinguishing it.
  • Stop the laser job and investigate if you smell or hear anything weird.
  • Make sure nobody stays in the pit (performing work, or sleeping there - just fetching a box is fine) and hang the white/red chain before starting the laser.
  • Never attempt to laser-cut unknown or dangerous materials. If in doubt, do not laser-cut.
  • Do not stick your hands or other parts of your body in the machine while (you or someone else is) operating the controller.
  • Remove any additional workpieces from the laser bed; they pose a fire hazard.

Safety precautions

  • Check the laser cutter for recognizable defects/damages/irregularities before using it.
  • Always leave the "Laser"-Switch in the off-position when the laser is not needed.
  • Make yourself aware of where the fire extinguishers are located.
  • Know where the E-Stop and Power-Off switches are located at.

Important switches explained

  • Laser-Switch: Controls the "enable" pin on the laser power supply. While off, the laser power supply will not turn on.
  • E-Stop: Shuts off the power supply for stepper motors and the laser power supply (moving parts + laser beam)
  • Main power switch: Used to turn the machine on/off, disables power to the entire machine (moving parts + laser beam + control/safety circuits)
  • Air Vent: Press to start air exhaust/ventilation. Will keep on for 10 seconds or as long as the laser is running. Watch for status light to confirm air flow is nominal. Started separately from the main laser supply as it's loud and annoying.

Laser-cutable materials

We recommend that new users cut/engrave poplar (wood) or MDF. A good list of dangerous and safe materials can be found here. If you are unsure what material it is or if you can not find information if it is safe to laser, always default to 'unsafe' and do not laser-cut.

Preparing your files

  1. Connect your computer to the "munichmakerlab" wifi. The password is written on the postbox mounted on the workshop door.
  2. Using the (windows pre-installed) "remote desktop" or (mac, additional software) "Microsoft Remote Desktop", connect to "laserpc" (or IP 10.10.20.81). The username and password are 'makerman'.
  3. Once connected, navigate to the Z:\laser\ folder and create a folder with your (lab-unique) name or nickname
  4. Now you can copy and paste vector files (.ai, .dxf, .svg) from your local computer into the folder on the computer
  5. Open LightBurn on the laserpc (icon on the desktop) and import (ctrl + i) your file

Technical Details, Manuals & Files

These resources are not needed by users.

Tips and Tricks

This PowerPoint is not needed by users but is useful, for beginners and first time users, please refer to this PowerPoint, the wiki and the diagram posted by the laser cutter if in doubt of the workflow when operating the cutter.

Refer to the workflow below for how to physically interact with the laser cutter, then look at the PowerPointwhen you reach the step Remote desktop into the laser cutter PC


DIAGRAM LASER CUTTER.png

Speed and power suggestions

The following tables have a couple of suggestions for speed and power values to use for common materials. Please feel free to extend them if you find new values that work well for your material.

Cut

To cut, you generally want higher power and lower speeds. If you're cutting acrylic, make sure to leave the protective film on for cutting. This protects your material from marks left by the fumes occurring during the cutting process.

Material Thickness (mm) Speed (mm/s) Power (%)
Acrylic 6 8 70
Acrylic 3 20 60
Plywood 3 30 50
Plywood 5 17 75

Engrave

Since you generally want to be relatively shallow when engraving, you're looking for high speed and low power.

Material Brightness of engraving Speed (mm/s) Power (%)
Acrylic 200 10
Plywood lighter 300 11

Troubleshooting

  • If all lights are green and the cutter head isn't moving (the display will most likely show "System resetting"), check the emergency stop is not pressed in.
  • If you are having trouble Remote Desktop connecting to the Laser PC, make sure you are connected to the MuMaLab WIFI.
  • If you are connected to the laser cutter via remote desktop and cannot send a file, save your Lightburn file and close light burn, open Lightburn again and try to re send the file

Finance

A 100W laser tube costs around 1200€ and has a lifetime of 6000-10000h. On the 20150315 Plenum/20161009 Plenum), it was decided that the following usage fee will be charged:

  • 2€ per 10min for members
  • 4€ per 10min for non-members
  • 5€ per 10min for "commercial" use